Haynes guide to preparing your car for winter
RELIABILITY
Breaking down is no joke. However, on a winter's night it can prove anything from unpleasant to life-threatening. Start by giving your car a full service. If the cost of garage servicing puts you off, why not do it yourself, with the help of a Haynes Manual? It's much easier than you think. Even if your car is not due for a service, double check the following items:
Coolant
Most cars have a coolant reservoir with "MAX" and "MIN" markings. With the engine cold, the level in the reservoir should be between these markings. (If the engine is hot, the level may be above the "MAX" - this is OK.)
Caution: Don't remove the filler cap while the system is hot.
If the level is at or below "MIN", top up with an antifreeze/water mixture, or just with neat antifreeze. Don't use plain water except in an emergency, as it will dilute the antifreeze already in the system. Make sure the antifreeze you buy is suitable for your make of car - check the small print on the container, or ask for advice. Antifreeze doesn't last for ever.
Most car manufacturers specify a coolant change every 2 or 3 years. If the coolant in the reservoir is a transparent blue, pink or orange, chances are it's OK. If it is murky and rusty looking, it"s probably overdue a change. If in doubt, change it. If you're not sure whether your car's cooling system has enough antifreeze in it, you can buy an antifreeze tester from an accessory shop, or ask a garage to test it for you.
Coolant hoses
Inspect the radiator hoses and the smaller coolant hoses for signs of cracking, splitting or bulging. Check that the hose clips are tight. New antifreeze has a searching effect and will quickly find any weak points.
Battery
Battery failure is the commonest single cause of winter breakdowns.
If the car is increasingly hard to start and the engine slow to turn on the starter motor, especially first thing in the morning, chances are that the battery is on its way out. Check that the top of the battery is clean and dry, that the terminals are free of corrosion and that the lead connections are tight.
Discard any cloth or tissue which you use to wipe the battery - it will contain traces of sulphuric acid. Even though most modern batteries are sealed so you can no longer check the electrolyte level, some have a "magic eye" showing the state of charge - this is worth looking at for advance warning of possible problems. See the instructions on the battery for how to read it. Many of the larger car accessory shops and fast-fit specialists will perform a battery and charging system check, either free or for a small charge. This will tell you if the alternator is producing enough electricity to keep the battery charged.
Alternator drivebelt
The alternator charges the battery.
Its drivebelt may also drive the water pump, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor. With the engine stopped, take a look at the belt. Signs of fraying or cracking mean that renewal is strongly advisable. Press the belt midway between two pulleys to see how tight it is. A slack belt may slip and squeal, especially just after start-up. This means that the alternator will not be working efficiently, and the belt will wear quickly.
Check the engine oil
Also check the levels of brake and clutch hydraulic fluid, power steering and automatic transmission fluid, as applicable.
Diesel fuel filter
Any water in the fuel filter bowl can freeze in severe weather, blocking the flow of fuel.
To avoid problems, drain the filter and fit a new element if it's due.
Tyre pressures
Ideally, pressures should be checked when the tyres are cold (not driven for at least 30 minutes). Check the pressure by pushing the nozzle of the gauge firmly onto the valve so that no air can be heard escaping. Remove the gauge from the valve and check the reading.
Tyre tread depth and condition
The legal minimum tread depth is 1.6mm, but in practice it's better to fit new tyres well before this limit is reached - 2mm is none too soon for a good grip in the wet.
TOP TEN TIPS
- Don't leave the car unattended with the engine running while the windscreen defrosts - it's an obvious target for thieves
(If the car is on the road it's also illegal.) - Clean the wiping edges of the wiper blades with a tissue dipped in neat screen wash additive. This will help stop smearing and prolong their life.
- Warm (not boiling!) water is OK for defrosting windows, but watch where it runs away to - it could form an ice slick on the ground when it freezes.
- Make things easier for the battery by not switching on headlights, heater blower or heated rear window until the engine is running. Similarly, switch off lights etc before stopping the engine.
- If your car has air conditioning, run it for 10 minutes or so once a month to keep oil in the system distributed and stop the seals drying out.
- Switch off the heated rear window as soon as the screen is clear.
- Winter grade diesel can cope with temperatures down to -15C. If lower temperatures are expected, use an anti-waxing additive in the fuel tank. (Or stay at home!)
- When parking overnight in freezing conditions, leave the car in gear and the handbrake off if it is safe to do so. This will prevent the handbrake freezing in the "on" position.
- Don't reduce tyre pressures in the hope of improving grip on snow.
- When defrosting the windscreen, free the wiper blades carefully - perhaps with a squirt of de-icer - to avoid tearing the rubber.
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